Hair Glossary

• Babylights: Mimicking sun-kissed tones from the hair of children. The majority of your color should still be your natural color, only adding delicate highlights, mainly around the face and hairline.
• Back Cutting Technique used to break up layering and to create lift.
• Backcoming A hairdressing technique that creates volume at the scalp area. Take a small section in the area where you want to achieve volume, and using the comb or brush, ‘push’ the hair down towards the scalp.
• Backslicing Cut with tips of scissors diagonally into the hair at midlength, working with a backcombing motion.
• Balance The visual equilibrium and weight of the hair in relation to the body and the total hair shape.
• Balayage: The go-to color for modern, chic hair! Balayage creates depth and dimension, and leaves you with a sun-kissed finish. It means to sweep or paint hair giving a sun-kissed natural look and allows for softer less noticeable regrowth line. 
• Base Control (or base position) Where the rod sits in relation to its base subsection – on base, half base or off base.
• Base Break/Bump: Blends and Brightens the roots of the hair that are left after a highlight. Essentially “breaking up” the darker natural color and softening it. Typically done on a blonde at the shampoo bowl for just a few minutes
• Bevel An inclination that forms an angle other than a right angle. A gradual stacking of the hair along a perimeter line.
• Blunt Cutting Creates a balanced clean edge to the length of the haircut. Scissors, texture scissors or clippers can be used, depending on desired result.
• Blunt Cutting with clippers Creates a strong, blunt line in a haircut..
• Bob A haircut with a precise perimeter line that can be cut with or without inversion.
• Body The amount of resilience and sturdiness the hair exhibits when touched.
• Body Position The location and position of the body in relation to the hair being cut.
• Bone Structure The underlying skeletal configuration that helps to form body and facial features.
• Bookend Wrap One of three ways to place end papers. Covers the ends of the hair with one end of the paper folded in half.
• Busted: Hair that’s overworked, over-processed, and damaged

• Channeling Used to soften layers and remove weight when you need to work deeper than slicing will allow. Scissors or texture scissors can be used.
• Chemical Cut: Hair so over-processed that it breaks and looks as though it has been cut.
• Chunking Cut with tips of scissors horizontally into the hair at the mid-length of section and pushing toward the scalp in a backcombing motion.
• Clarifying Shampoo A shampoo that removes styling product residue and contains a chelating agent to also remove metals from the hair prior to a texture service.
• Clipper Cutting (over comb) Using clippers and comb technique to create a “faded” effect for the hairline.
• Clipper Cutting (tapering with clippers) Creates a short, natural hairline.
• Color Bath: Color applied over lathered up hair to adhere to porous areas like faded hair, or to blend a highlight.
• Color Correction: Removing, correcting, or blending unwanted color results. Most often, this service is usually a lengthy color removing process which “strips” color out of the hair to create a fresh palette. Usually a combination of separate color applications and appointments.
• Color wont lift color: I often hear clients say they want to lighten their hair, but don’t want me to use “bleach.” If you have existing color on your hair, this is next to impossible.
• Comb Control Use of the comb for control of the hair.
• Combination A composition which utilizes a variety of large and small rods to create a combination of textures.
• Composition The sequence of sizes or the way different size and shape rods are used in a texture design.
• Contrast: The difference you see between colors, high contrast would be a very bold difference while low contrast is very subtle difference. Adding a base color, lowlights and highlights to the hair creates “contrast.”
• Cortex The core of the hair composed of fibers and matrix; it comprises up to 90% of hair bulk.
• Cross Bonds Cross linkages in the cortex that hold the keratin fibers (or polypeptide chains) together; responsible for the shape in hair.
• Cushion Wrap Positioning end papers along the strands to cushion and support fragile hair.
• Cuticle The transparent, plate-like scales that form the hard outer layer of the hair.
• Cuticular Hair Protein Hair protein made up of flat cells that overlap each other.
• Cutting Angle The angle at which you are cutting the hair.
• Cutting Space The area of the hair that you are working on within the exercise. For example, if you are working on a one-length shape, your cutting space is the perimeter area.

• Density Number of hairs per square inch of scalp.
• Diagonal Cutting Cutting the hair in any direction other than horizontal or vertical.
• Diagonal Layers Layers of hair that are created by taking a diagonal subsection and cutting at an angle parallel to it.
• Dimensional Color: Color that brings out the movement of a haircut.
• Discipline The order and control you work in, along with your tactical approach.
• Disconnect When a section of hair is cut and it overlaps or is longer than the underneath guideline.
• Double Flat Wrap Placing two end papers – one on top of the strand, the other underneath. This method is the preferred standard.
• Drop Spiral A texture technique with less curl in the top and crown and with more texture underneath. Modern version utilizes triangular bases and multi-directional wraps.
• Dusting: Cutting the most minimal amount of hair, otherwise known as the slightest trim for those who are nervous to get a haircut.

• Edgy: Trendy, non-conventional, or extreme. Shapes may include choppy (Rooney Mara in Girl With the Dragon Tattoo), asymmetrical (Santigold), or an under cut (Rihanna’s short cut/shaved and long on top).
• Elasticity Hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original length.
• Elevation The distance you lift the hair above 0 degrees while cutting to achieve a one-length, graduated or layered result. Elevation levels can be 0 degrees, 45 degrees or 90 degrees.
• End Wraps (End Papers) Tissue used to keep hair ends flat when wrapping around a texture tool.
• Exterior Perimeter Line The boundary line of the hair that lies on the skin and creates a base shape.

• Face Framing Layers: Layers starting at or below the chin and continue down to the length of the hair. They can be soft or defined depending on your preferance!
• Fan Cutting Used to soften the center of a section that blends in with the outer part of the section.
• Faux Hawk: An edgy look; a messier version of a mohawk.
• Fillers: These are used to even out hair color before using a permanent color.
• Finger Angle Angle at which you hold fingers, usually 45 or 90 degrees.
• Finger Dexterity The agility and nimbleness of your fingers.
• Finger Tension The amount of grip applied to the hair with the fingers and thumb.
• Follicle The depression in the scalp where hair begins; the root of a hair fiber.
• Freehand Cutting Cutting the hair with little or no tension.

• Gisele Waves: Gisele Bundchen’s waves. Stylists refer to Gisele when we mean loose, tousled waves. It’s more about the movement instead of volume.
• Glaze: Semi-permanent product used for adding shine and for protecting hair color from fading.
• Globular Hair Protein A random composition that forms a glue and holds the coiled helical protein in place inside the cortex.
• Gloss: Shiny overlay on the hair. Usually a finishing product for hair color and styling.
• Graduation: A build up of weight, 45 degrees from the head shape. This technique can be done in different ways like around face (face framing), at the nape (stacked/angled bob), or side swept bangs. When this technique is utilized, it gives movement and structure to your cut.
• Growth Direction or Pattern The angle at which the hair grows out of the scalp which often creates unique characteristics described as “cowlicks,” “widow’s peaks,” “ducktails” or “double crowns.”
• Guideline A guideline is the reference point used to determine the length and angle to cut each subsequent section.

• Hair ElasticityThe spring and flexibility of the hair.
• Hair TextureDiameter of an individual hair.
• HairlineThe perimeter line of hair that follows the natural shape of the entire head.
• Hairline CleaningRemoving unwanted hair, and refining shape.
• Hairline ShapingCreating short, clean lengths in the fringe area.
• Half BaseTexture wrapping method that places the rod or texture tool directly on the back parting of the subsection.
• Head ShapeThe contours and silhouette of the head.
• Helical Hair ProteinA twisted coil structure that gives hair the ability to stretch and rebound
• Horizontal Cutting AngleTo cut the hair into any shape using a horizontal subsection and cutting at that angle.
• Horizontal LayersLayers of hair that are created by taking a horizontal subsection and cutting at an angle parallel to it.

• Indentation A hollow or pocket in the skin.
• Infusion Tea made by steeping an herb’s leaves or flowers in hot water.
• Ingrown Hair A hair that does not break the surface of the skin, and grows back inward. Can be severe and cause inflammation, soreness and infection.
• Intensity Activity or amount of movement in the curl. It is determined by the rod size. Small rods create “fast” intensity; large rods create “slow” intensity.
• Interlocking A method in which hair is maintained or tightened using a tool.
• Interior Cutting Space Any cutting technique that does not bring the hair to a perimeter (or exterior) base line.
• Inversion To angle a haircut either forward or backward.
• Ionic Process where water molecules are broken down by ions into smaller droplets. This then allows the hair to absorb the moisture more easily. Ionic technology usually uses hot ceramic plates to generate the negativly charge ions
• IPL Intense Pulsed Light A treatment consisting of short pulses of light sent out through an applicator that is gently pressed against the skin. The light energy is absorbed naturally and, depending on how it is applied, can act beneficially on pigmentation in hair follicles, pigmentation in the skin, or blood lesions such as thread veins. (ILP, intense pulse light, intense pulsed light, intense pulse lite)
• Isopropyl Lanolate Synthetic moisturizer.

• Jojoba Oil Contains superior properties to keep skin and hair soft. It is beneficial to dry hair.
• Jooge: In the fashion world, this means detailing — rubbing the hair between my fingers for texture, or at the roots for a extra lift.

KANEKALON
A trademark for a Japanese-made synthetic fiber which is used extensively in the manufacture of wigs and hairpieces. It’s popularity is due to its ability to retain its shape after washing, and also to the fine texture of the fiber, making it a desirable choice for simulating the texture of human hair. There are different qualities of Kanekalon fiber.

KELOIDS
A type of raised darkened scar, more common with dark skin. Due to a defect in the healing process.

KERATIN
A fibrous protein found in hair, nails, and skin.

• Laser An acronym for Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation. A commonly used tool for cosmetic and surgical procedures.
• LAURYLDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPL HYDROLYZED A conditioning agent in shampoos, which helps detangle the hair.
• Layering A cutting method in which the hair is held higher than 90 degrees from the head and each layer is shorter than the last.
• Lubricant An oil or oil rich crème or lotion designed to lubricate the skin and slow moisture loss.
• Lubricates Makes smooth or slippery by using oil to overcome friction.

• Mannequin A life-size replica of the human head used for practice texture wrapping, hair-cutting and hair-coloring exercises.
• Mastery Point Tips from the masters to help you execute an exercise with C.R.A.F.T.- like precision, skill and speed.
• MATTE A non – shiny surface that absorbs light; a dead or dull finish.
• MEDULLA The medulla is a central zone of cells usually only present in large thick hairs.
• MELANIN Natural substance that gives color (pigment) to hair and skin.
• MELANOMA A form of skin cancer.
• MELASMA Dark skin discoloration on sun-exposed areas of the face and neck. Young women with brownish skin tones are at greatest risk. Also known as Chloasma.
• METABOLISM The body transformation of food into energy.
• MICRO DIFFUSE Optimum hold without overload.
• MICRO FINE Brushes out easily.
• MICRO GRAFT A very small hair graft usually consisting of one or two hairs.
• MICRO LINKING TECHNIQUE The process of attaching hair wefts without braids. The links are sewn on to the wefted hair. The user’s natural hair is pulled through and locked secure. This system is highly recommended for natural hair that is too fine or soft to hold other weave techniques.
• MICRODERMABRASION An intensive exfoliation process that rejuvenates the skin by utilizing ultra-fine aluminium oxide crystals to remove the upper layer of the stratum corneum (microderm, microdermibrasion, microdermebrasion, microdermbrasion, microderma)
• MINI GRAFT A small hair graft usually consisting of between three to ten hair roots.
• MINOXIDIL Minoxidil is the generic name of the brand name drug Rogaine. Rogaine is manufactured by Upjohn. Minoxidil is available in the form of a topical lotion with varying strength from 2% to 5%. Minoxidil was the first drug to be approved by the FDA for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia.
• MOISTURIZER An emollient cream used to hydrate the skin.
• MONOFILAMENT Fine, transparent nylon or silk mesh with hairs individually hand-knotted into the mesh. Allows the hair to fall naturally and gives more versatility in styling. Very suitable for persons with extensive hair loss, as the color of the scalp underneath shows through, creating the illusion of hair growing out of your scalp.
• MYRISTATE Synthetic moisturizer.

• Natural BodySee “body.”
• Natural FallWherever the hair flows and moves according to the pull of gravity or its natural growth pattern.
• NeutralizerThe chemical that stops the breakdown of cross bonds in the hair fiber, so that hair can be reformed in its new configuration.

• Occipital The bone which forms the back and lower side of the head.
• Off Base Texture wrapping that places the rod or texture tool directly behind the subsection.
• On Base Texture wrapping that places the rod or texture tool directly on the subsection.
• One-length A haircut in which all sections are brought down to a perimeter at zero elevation.
• ORGANIC Pertaining to carbon – based compounds produced by living plants, animals or by synthetic processes. Referring to substances that are or have been alive, and therefore contain carbon molecules in their chemical structure.
• OUTER ROOT SHEATH A soft thin layer surrounding the lower two-thirds of a hair.
• Overdirecting
  This is a cutting technique where hair is lifted and cut over the head to create extra body and volume
• OVERTREATMENT Overly aggressive treatment to remove hair which leads to temporary or permanent skin damage.
• Oxidation: A chemical change in hair color caused by air. This usually results in the the yellowing of bright highlights.

• Palm to Palm Cutting A form of cutting hair that keeps the hand and scissors in the most ergonomic position.
• Paper Thin Highlights: The subtlest form of highlights – more of a glisten than a noticeable line.
• Parameters Basic elements to consider and determine before starting any exercise.
• Parietal Ridge The curved area of the head where the top and sides meet.
• Perimeter The boundary line of the hair that lies on the skin and creates a shape.
• Pick (See stabilizer) Used to lift the rod band off the hair.
• Pivot Turning a line (or comb) with one end stationary and the other free to swing or rotate.
• Planes Large, flatter areas of the head that are divided by the occipital bone, parietal ridges and crown.
• Point Cutting Cutting into any line with the points of the scissors to a depth of ½ to 1 inch. Point cutting can be achieved with comb control, through the fingers, deep or shallow. Scissors, texture scissors or clippers can be used depending on desired results.
• Porosity Condition of the hair cuticle as determined by its ability to absorb moisture.
• PrecisionThe accuracy and exactness you apply to all areas of the haircut.
• Pre-treatment Restructuring or conditioning treatment given prior to texturizing.
• Processing Lotion The chemical used to soften the cross bonds in hair for reforming.
• Progression A texture composition using small to large or large to small rods in sequence.

Q-SWITCH
A device that produces short intense bursts of energy from a laser.

• RadialRadiating from a central point.
• Razor CuttingRazor cutting with short, smooth motions for a softer edge. Can be used for internal or external texturizing.
• Razor Cutting: EdgingGives a disheveled finish to the ends of the hair.
• Razor Cutting: SlicingControlled way of removing weight.
• RepetitionA texture composition using the same size rods.
• ResistantHair with a cuticle that is difficult to penetrate and requires special treatment for processing.
• RodThe tool that hair is wound around, causing the intensity and shape of the curl.
• Round LayersA soft layered haircut that follows the round of the head shape.

• Scissor-over-combCutting the hair close to the scalp by using a comb to hold the section and the middle of the scissors to cut in a continuous fluid motion. This movement can also be done with clippers instead of scissors.
• Scissors and Comb ControlThe ability to comfortably hold and control scissors and comb and use them in any cutting position.
• SectionA primary area of the head parted again into subsections.
• Slide CuttingCutting hair with scissors slightly open to create texture and movement on wet hair. This technique can be used to create internal and external textures.
• Solid LineA strong line that is cut bluntly with scissors.
• Specialty WrapInnovative wrap with fresh modern edge and trend appeal. Utilizes zig-zag sectioning, multi-directional wraps and other techniques that makes it ideal for the client seeking to make a statement.
• Spiral WrapA method that wraps small triangular subsections in a corkscrew fashion about the root. Ideal for hair six inches or longer.
• StabilizerA tool used to lift the rod band off the hair.
• StandardsA set of guidelines to help you measure your best.
• Stationary GuideTo bring each cutting section to a guideline that does not move or change and to cut the sections at that position; to stay stationary at that guide.
• SubsectionThe smallest parting within a section.  This is the area of the hair that will be wrapped on the rod.
• Surface PlaningCreating movement by cutting hair with an open and close movement of the scissors on dry hair.

• T – ZONE The forehead, nose and chin areas, which tend to be oilier than the cheeks.
• Tension Stress caused by stretching or pulling tension on hair; holds the position of the rod and causes cross bonds to rearrange.
• Tension The amount of pressure applied to the hair with the fingers and thumb.
• Test Curl A method of determining whether a texture wave has finished processing.
• Texture The feel, touch or visual quality of the hair.
• Texture Space The area where the rod is placed in relation to the head.
• Texture Treatment A chemical salon service that permanently reshapes the hair.
• Texturizing To remove weight and to create unstructured ends. Can be blunt or angled.
• Thinning
  Thinning is ideal for those with thick, dense tresses who want to eliminate bulkiness. By relying on thinning shears, the process creates super-fine layers and adds dimension
• Tipping: A lightening technique done by freehand with color. Usually this technique is reserved for the ends of the hair or tips.
• Traveling Guide To bring your last cutting guideline to your next cutting section. To move your body position so that it follows the guideline. To move around the head.
• Twist Cutting A technique used to create uneven texture.

• Upsweep: Loosely gathering hair on the top of the head. This look is ideal for the gym, summer weather, or for protecting hair from rainy weather.

• Vertical Cutting AngleTo cut the hair using a vertical subsection and cutting it at that angle.
• Vertical LayersLayers of hair that are created by taking a vertical sub-section and cutting at an angle parallel to it.
• Viewing AngleThe angle at which you view the hair as you cut it.
• VolumeThe appearance of lift and thickness.

• Waving Lotion The chemical used to soften the cross bands in hair for reforming.
• Wedge Haircut
  While a graduated cut requires a maximum angle of 90 degrees, a wedge haircut needs only 45, says Ross.
• Weight Distribution Creating more visual weight in a specific area of the haircut.
• Weight Line
  Like the name implies, this is the area in a cut that holds the most weight.
• Weight Removal The elimination of hair bulk, using graduation. Layering or texturizing methods of hair cutting.

More Terms Coming Soon!

More Terms Coming Soon!

More Terms Coming Soon!